NOTE:  We sent a Snapfish link to some family members.  If you would like to see the full album of pictures, let us know.
On Saturday, a group of 28 from school went to climb the active volcano, Pacaya.  This is the same volcano I climbed two years ago, but there was one minor difference:  this time we climbed WHILE it was erupting!  Before you think we are too crazy, it is not violently erupting out of the top, it’s only seeping out of the sides of the summit. 

Just getting there was an adventure in itself.  Watching a full-size school bus navigate the narrow, muddy, curvy road up the mountain was something to see, but we made it.  We started at 6,000 feet and climbed to 8,500.  The first 90 minutes of the trail was a steady climb with no switchbacks, but lots of rest stops and scenic views of other volcanoes in the distance.  Several kids walk up and down the trail with horses calling out “taxi.”  When we started to see cooled rivers of lava we knew we were getting close.  Pacaya has been very active for over 50 years.  The latest round of eruptions started about 5 months ago.  The first lava we saw was 3 months old.

The first steep climb was less than 10 minutes, which brought us to a big plateau with a great view of the summit and relatively fresh lava.  You could see the red glow underneath in many spots, and sometimes parts would move and break off.  This is the spot most people stop, have lunch, and turn around.  We would have none of that.  Ten of our group members forged on for the very top.  This is when the climb gets serious in more ways than one.  It was about 45 minutes - straight up.  Sarah was an animal – easily in the best shape of our group as she was the only one who kept up with our guide (who does this twice a day).  I was a close second - 15 yards behind.  Reaching the final plateau before the cone, the guide shook Sarah’s hand and said “bienvenido.” (welcome).  We took in some more great views before our final ascent. 

This is when we had a new challenge added to our mission.  Besides the altitude and steep climb on soft volcanic ash – there was a white smoke pouring out of big cracks in the ground.  When the wind hit just right, we got our first whiff of sulfurous gas.  That first burst brought several of us down on all fours as we scrambled for something to cover our faces.  My headband changed to Jesse James style.  After catching our breath we moved on.    After 5 more minutes we were near the top.  A big hole created a swirling wind tunnel of sulfur.  We could actually feel and hear the rumbling of the volcano below us, as we were above where the lava has been spilling out the side.  Looking up, the last 30 feet to the peak was a thick cloud of sulfur.  After taking a few pictures next to the hole, we heard our guide calling out “Cinco” (our group number).  At first we thought he was back down a few feet, but then realized he was up on the peak wanting us to catch a glimpse of hot lava inside the crater!  The wind cleared the sulfur for a few seconds so I made a mad dash up for about 10 feet before being surrounded by another cloud.  Sarah was behind me and we both hit the ground trying to hold our breath.  Another clearing gift by the wind and I was up to the top with another sprint.  Our crazy guide was standing out on the edge of a point as he showed us our prize for our troubles.  In a hazy cloud I inched my way out to him while my throat and lungs burned (as the gas mixes with water in your lungs, it turns into sulfuric acid).  He held my arm and pointed down.  As soon as I saw a small glimpse of lava, I said to myself “ok, I’m outta here” and turned to go back.  My guide knew I was giving up and grabbed my arm to give it another shot.  Sure enough, the wind cleared the smoke for about 5 seconds and I saw it:  a huge pool of red/orange, hot, gurgling lava below!  Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture of this, because I was a bit more concerned with other things – like breathing.  The cloud returned and I turned to head down from the peak.  Sarah had already started down.  She caught a big, painful gulp of sulfur and was heading for clearer air.  Luckily, below the peak the wind cooperated and let us catch our breath.   

The way down is not as tough on the lungs or legs, but every bit as challenging.  A fall on the steep ash and cinder-like stones would not be pretty.  (not to mention the cliffs a few feet away)  A few times the wind enveloped us in another cloud of sulfur, which forces you to stop since you can’t see where you are going (even though it’s clear a few feet away).  Some people try to ski down on the volcanic ash, and I had a considerable advantage in this task with my size 14 shoes.  Sarah escaped injury when she gave up on trying to stop a rolling boulder, and decided to yell a warning cry below instead.  When we reached the big plateau it started raining, which was a blessing in disguise.  The rain sizzled and evaporated as it hit the lava, and more of it broke apart.  It looked very different than on the way up.  It really felt like we were on another planet or the moon.

The experience was so surreal.  It probably seems like this tale was embellished or exaggerated, but the experience (especially at the peak) was incredibly intense.  There is no way that they would let anybody climb to the top of a volcano with this kind of activity in the States.  Thanks to the lax Guatemalan government, we were able to make the climb for less than 4 bucks!

It wasn’t until we were able to fill our lungs with non-sulfurous air that we decided it was worth it.  It wasn’t easy, but how many times do you get the chance to peer into the crater of an active volcano?  There are countless beautiful scenes on this planet to remind us of God’s power, but this grace-filled moment will be tough to top.  Maybe it was the sulfur, but it gave new meaning to the phrase “breath-taking.”